Don’t pick your scabs in Africa!

May 2nd, 2010

To those of you who don’t have the time to hear me babble today, please skip to the last paragraph for some appreciative pan-handling…

Having a deadline in Africa is like having a burly-man beard to trim with a dull razor (I would 
imagine), and the last 3 weeks has left me exhausted and dizzy! Somehow we have managed to pull this project to reasonable place, and now I am preparing to leave.  My heart is heavy as I write today, knowing this may be my last note to you from Tamale.

The day after our highly anticipated web site came into existence, I was in much need of a “mini-vay-cay;” so my friend and I decided to jump on the tro-tro (African-style chicken bus) and head to “Bolga,” the closest larger town to Tamale about 400 miles away.

We traveled East, passing through small villages that began to look more and more 
desolate than the last.  At every stop woman and children forced their sweaty heads 
through the windows of our tro-tro pushing strange musty 
breads, fish heads, and fu-fu (a taste-less dough that feels like glue in your mouth) into our 
faces…I would give anything for a cheeseburger.

Bolga was quite similar to Tamale, not the get-away-fabulous I was looking for but we 
made the most of it.  We ate at the exact replica of “Swad” (our favorite restaurant in 
Tamale) there named “Swat,” which is owned by one of two Indian men who have been 
competing for business since one stole the others wife a few years back.  You could almost 
taste the tension in the menu.

Bolga also has a water crisis unlike any of seen so far.  It was impossible to believe that 
people bathe, swim, wash, and drink all from the same murky puddle in-between 
communities.  While there, curiosity overcame me and I visited a Guinea Worm Clinic to see 
if what I heard was true:  that these skinny devils enter the lesions of clue-less victims in the water, only to be reeled out weeks later with a small rod; delivered ten times their size, with lives of their own inside you!

To my amazement I witnessed a young boy go through this process with bizarre ease, only to walk away with a relieved smile; as I stood mouth-gaping in 
disgust! Now I scream like a mad woman at anyone I see scratching or picking his or her scabs.

It takes a lot to shake me these days though, Pearl and I were laughing last night at the fact 
that we no longer shriek when we see old men in Muslim robes sneak into green-leaves to take a poopsky, and we simply flick large bugs, beads of sweat, and dirt of all kinds, away as if it were nothing.

Yesterday was our big going away party, I invited all of the Brilliant Future girls, teachers, peers and friends to have 3-legged races, egg tosses, and prize-winning games of all kinds…I sat there watching all of these girls laugh and play, feeling a joy that is un-describable.  I can’t wait to show you all pictures of this day, it is the only way to give you an idea of how amazing it really was.

After the African dancers gave us an outstanding “farewell dance,” and all 65 guests said their tearful goodbyes,  I sat in the courtyard with close friends under the stars and reflected over the past eight weeks, which truly feels like a lifetime.

Many of you ask me if Africa has changed me, and I believe that it has. I have a new understanding of the world and my place in it; I am more grateful for everything and everyone I have in my life, and I hope to spend a lot less time worrying about the small stuff, taking more care of where and with whom I exert my energy.

My project finally has a name, it’s called “Brilliant Future International!” These girls have become like daughters to me, I’ll fight for them until they can fight for themselves…this much I know is true.

There is a lot to figure out when I get back, but I am full of ideas and optimism so that’s a good start right?

God I’m gonna miss Africa.

Lights on…lights OFF!

May 2nd, 2010

Lights off, lights on!

Wow!  It’s been two weeks since I’ve been able to write, and there is no way I’ll make it through all that’s going on in the desperate 20 mn I have before lights go off again, so bear with me while I ramble to fill you in!

In my short time here I have gotten to know everyone in town which has me attending weddings, funerals, and functions of all kinds (which most recently included a Beauty Contest, where a 200lb girl won 1st place (gotta love Africa for their appreciation of large beautiful women!).

I am making a valiant effort at learning “Dagbani” which is the most difficult dialect I have ever heard, but rather fun to speak; the positive response to any yes/no question is “N’aaaaa” so when I bike by a group of woman in the morning and say “D’asiba,” (good morning), they all get excited that I am speaking their language and yell out “N’aaaaa!”

Going to the villages around Tamale’ is my favorite part of my week; I have been visiting with families and looking at the progress of some of YARO’s projects, which brings me into huts and compound homes where people have never seen a white person, much less a red-headed speckled one.

They all welcome me with open arms, offering anything they can to make me feel welcome, including an insistence to dance with them at any given opportunity.  As soon as I hear drums, I hide! Africans love to make the Obruni’s, and there really is no option to stay seated when you are surrounded by a band of drums and urging woman, men, children and chiefs!

So, I have started taking African dance lessons so I don’t like a complete moron, get some exercise, and admittedly to flirt with my very handsome and talented teacher.  No worries though, I don’t foresee myself becoming Village-Hut-Mother of 12, and really, it’s just so much fun!

I am working every day all day, and spend my sleep-less nights (thanks to Larium) thinking of how I can accomplish all that I have come to envision before I leave.  My sponsorship program is in full swing; I have been interviewing girls from schools and villages all over Tamale.  So far I have met with about 60, and this experience has changed me, forever.

I have been asked to go on a radio show this Thursday to talk about what I’m doing, and how it correlates with the Yaro program, young woman’s rights etc, and I am working on my web site!  Along with Albert, the two of us have a bit of a dream in mind for these girls and the future of Yaro, so you will be seeing what I have been putting together soon!

Every time I think of you I try to find words to tell you how it feels to be here; what it has been like sitting in front of a child who has never felt worthy of speaking to at all.  The tears that roll off their cheeks because of their 3 hour walks to school on empty stomachs, torn shoes, and bruised hands, has put a promise in my soul to change some destinies.

However, I have also learned what is realistic, and what stands in my way to accomplish anything sustaining.  I have never welcomed such an enormous challenge, somehow with an optimism and determination from where I’m not too sure.

My classes have also become quite popular, and word has spread that there is a “Salaminga” (Strange white girl) talking about sex in Tamale.  I now have three classes of 65 students and do anything I can to initiate interaction!  We play games, separate boys and girls for deep convo, give pop quizzes (where I learned that the majority of students thought that AIDS stood for “Americans Idea of Discouraging Sex!!”).

Most recently I gave all students the assignment of writing down anonymous questions to ask me at the end of class…I received 14 requests to describe MY first sexual experience, asked to explain why it’s NOT ok for a wife to be beaten if she refuses sex, and many others that even had ME blushing!  I have somehow managed to keep my cool and not offend, so it’s been very worth while and a lot of fun.

It has either cooled down or I am finally somewhat used to the heat, but water has been really difficult.  I will never turn on a tap or walk into an air-conditioned room again without feeling VERY blessed!

I really loving every day here, my pace of life has slowed significantly and I have learned to take nothing for granted,  especially my friends and family!  Who wants to come visit me?!